“Are you sure this is the way”, said the apprehensive Dragon Lady
“That’s what the lady in Firenze told me.”
“This doesn’t look good,” she whined.
“Lets try it anyway.” Chimed the teachers in the back.
And so started our adventure up the Tuscan coast with a side trip to one of the neatest and unique little towns high on a hill.
We got a late start from the boat since we didn't want to pick up the car too early and had the shuttle bus drop us off at the North gate for a short walk to Avis to confirm our extra day and then killed a couple of hours on the tchotchke search and wound up in the local farmers market in Civitavecchia.
The typical “anything that begins with an A” market. A fish, A suitcase, A meal… Anything. No luck on grandbaby stuff but some interesting local flavor.
We had arranged to meet the teachers at noon near the main gate for a little romp up the coast… just to see what was there. I had spoken to a tour agent in Firenze when planning the trip and she had mentioned a couple of places in addition to a $650 wine tour that we did not book… but I did remember a couple of locations she mentioned as being great spots for a little lunch and sightseeing along the coast.
After a little detour to find the coast…hence the exchange at the start of this note, the main road was too far inland for a coastal view, we headed through Orbitello onto the island of Argentario looking for a spot to have lunch as the lady in Firenze had suggested. WRROOONNNG… a quick stop for directions and we found that “Tutti Chiusi”… everything is closed for the season.
Now what… back tracking to Orbitello we tried several signs pointing to various eateries… all “Tutti Chiusi”. Not to be deterred, we wound up in front of what appeared to be the local bus terminal and asked a couple of locals for some suggestions for lunch. 2 kids pointed us down the hill to a couple of places, one of which was Ristorante I Colori del Mar; and what a find it was. Specializing in fresh seafood in some interesting presentations, the owner himself took care of us. We chose a mild local wine that was excellent and decided to just graze the antipasti menu. He suggested a Misto [assortment of 4 items and we allowed him to chose which to serve.
WOW! First came “Filleto de Scorfano all Aceto Balsamico” Local fish fillets smoked and served cold with an outstanding Balsamic glaze, fresh greens and Pomodoro. Next came “Spiedino di Spada in Salsa Cremola” a fish and egg salad on sliced tomato that was so light it was unbelievable. Then “Gamberi in Vellutata di Agrumi” Shrimp cubes crusted in sea salt, skewered with olives and fried. OUTSTANDING taste and presentation in margarita glasses. Finally “Gamberoni. In Crosta” Giant head on Prawns in a special crust, fried to perfection.
12 days on the boat… and this was the first meal worth fussing over. 5+ food and service… Wine=VERY Good.
After pictures around, including a dish served to another table… fried Scorfano served in a brown paper parcel that was just outstanding… [pics to follow] and we were off again.
But wait…there’s more to this adventure…
Stay tuned for Sundown over the castle.
Ciao 4 Now,
Chuck and way too pleased with the trip so far even with no tchotchkies, Dragon Lady.
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