“€22, but for you, sir I make you special price, €20.”
I grab my heart and fake a coronary…“You can do it for €11.”
“Sir your are trying to Kill ME!... €18.”
“€11.”
“Please sir, I must make a living, for you… €15.”
“€11”
“Sir, Please… my family…Ok last price, €14”
“€12”
“Oh no sir…I can’t do that, Give me €13.”
“Yes you can… €12… my last price or I go there.”
As I walk away with Illy’s latest tchotchke find for €12, the shopkeeper is still shaking his head.
“Did you have to beat him up so badly?” she asks.
“I shudda got it for €11”.
But wait… this was at the end of our day in the City overlooking the Golden Horn. First a few facts before we begin the day’s adventure.
Founded 2,500 years ago by a band Greeks as Byzantium, Istanbul is the only city in the world to have been the capital of both an Islamic and a Christian empire. As the jewel of the Byzantine Empire Constantinople was the most important city in Christendom for more that 1000 years. As Istanbul it was the seat of the Ottoman sultans, rulers for a 500 year Islamic empire that stretched from the Black Sea and the Balkans to Arabia and Algeria.
Our day started with a bit of uncertainty as we did not find our guide and driver waiting for us at the gate as
they did in Izmir. While the girls were becoming increasingly nervous, a quick call to the agency rep. assured us that he would find us after I indicated our location at the terminal entrance. 10 minutes later a young man that had scurried by me earlier looking like he had a mission but without a sign came hurrying back from the opposite end of the port and upon spotting my trademark hat and beard, flashed a hand scribbled sign CHUC MERCURIO. Full of apologies, he took us to our comfortable 12 person van and we’re off.
Our guide Serkan had suggested that we head straight to Topkapi Palace to beat the crowds who would mostly start at either the Hagia Sophia or Blue Mosque. And he was, of course, right… we we’re practically alone. Tokapi means “Cannon Gate” for the 2 cannons that once topped the gate to the palace. On
the way he gave us a brief overview of the city and country’s history from ancient times through the Ottoman Empire. At the Palace, he 
gives us the basic stats and directs us where to start and where to meet him. I was concerned that we weren’t getting our money’s worth if he didn't accompany us for details but he explained that Guides are forbidden in the various sections as they tend to 
block the exhibits while lecturing. We visited the various rooms of the palace and courtyard exhibits of the political 
and social history through the ages. The size and scope of the palace ground was enormous and our visit included the massive Kitchens to see the enormous pots and wood burning stoves used to cook the soup served to the 30,000 soldiers who would gather in the courtyard for one rebellion or another. If they agreed with the reigning Sultans decision, they ate the soup. If not, they turned their soup pots upside down to demonstrate their pleasure until some equitable agreement was reached. Too bad American politics isn’t as simple. 
Another interesting portion on the palace beside the Hall of justice where the Sultan observed from behind a golden screen was the Harem. Quite extensive, it housed some interesting displays of elaborate living amongst the privileged ladies, and the young 
princes. An interesting feature of every room of the living quarters as well as most private rooms throughout the palace was the small water fountain treatments or cascades set into the window casements.
The constantly running water would create a “white noise”, masking conversations so that anyone lurking outside could not hear what was being discussed privately inside.The throngs of tour groups were arriving as we headed down the street to meet our driver, at the site of the infamous prison depicted in the move “Midnight Run”. Bought by Four Seasons Hotels, a multi-million Euro Grand Luxe hotel is being built over this archeological site and will have a plexi-glass lobby floor where you can see the excavation below as it continues. What a dichotomy; from the misery and degradation of the unfortunate prison inmates... to the opulence of the well healed traveler… all in the same spot.
There’s more from Turkey, so tune in for Istanbul Pt 2, or as the teachers call it, Illy’s Tchotchkies Parade.
Ciao 4 Now,
Chuck and the overwhelmed by our guide’s intense rhetoric [TMI], Dragon Lady
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