10.30.8 ISTANBUL - THE TCHOTCHKE CHRONICALS

“It’s too big for him.”
‘No Dear, a 2 is just fine, he'll grow into it.”
“And I say its to big, he’s my grandbaby and I should know.”
“Yes Dear you should know… wrap it up Mustafah, she'll take that one, How much?”
“€15, but for you I make special price, yes?”
“€10.”
Here we go again…

Grandma Dragon Chick is back on the tchotchke/t-shirt hunt for the kids, and Chuckie is back to haggling. Something he does very well… he WILL NOT pay marked price. DL, on the other hand, is ready to hand over whatever Ali Baba and the forty thieves claim is “the Best price for you lady!”

But again… that was near the end of the day… for now we continue the tour of Istanbul with a few more facts and a legend or two.

Istanbul owes its historical significance to its strategic location at the mouth of the Bosphorus, This gave it control of the sea traffic in the straits between the Black Sea and the Mediterranean and the overland traffic between Europe and Asia Minor. Ankara may be the official capital of modern Turkey, but Istanbul remains the country’s largest city, most important commercial and industrial center and busiest port, accounting for more than one-third of Turkey’s manufacturing output.

Legend has it that centuries before the Oracle of Delphi told the Greek Byzas, legendary founder of Byzantium to settle an area opposite a band of blind people who had settled on the shores of the Bosphorus, Jason and the Argonauts rowed through the Bosphorus seeking the Golden Fleece and escaped being killed by clashing rocks. Could this myth have grown from earthquakes which are common here?

After catching up with our driver at the Four Seasons, we headed to lunch at a local eatery, up an alley, around the corner and down the lane. Serkan recommended the meatballs with cheese which this place is apparently well know for. We were served a nice communal salad/pickled vegetable platter with lots of goodies and crusty bread. The Meatballs arrived, and while they looked more like Wendy’s square hamburgers than balls of meat, they were very tasty. Unfortunately Chuckie’s sore throat had given way to another attack of Stomatitis caused by his radiation treatment and was having a hard time eating anything spicy or slightly dry. Overall consensus on the meal was a 4+. But the beer was good.
With lunch out of the way it was time to visit the Haghia Sophia [also known as the Aya Sofya by the Turks]
Built in 325AD by Emperor Constantine on top of at least two earlier churches, it reigned as the greatest church in Christendom for over 1000 years and through numerous destructions and rebuilds is one of the most significant religious buildings on the planet. At the fall of the Byzantine Empire in 1453 it was converted to a mosque until declared a museum by Attaturk in 1934. This is one BIG church complete with a ramp that wound upwards to the upper gallery where the empress would be taken by horse cart to observe mass. In the center of the nave is scaffolding for the ongoing restoration that reaches nearly 15 stories high giving you a sense of the enormous dimension, of the dome, 100ft in diameter floating 180 feet above the floor, which became one of the most famous landmarks in the world.
Our guide’s passionate descriptions are only matched by the magnificence of this grand structure. The mosaics and frescos that were covered with plaster by Emperor Leo III to obliterate “graven Images” or Icons are being restored carefully and are truly magnificent representations of the art of the times.

Since he Blue Mosque will not open until 330PM we visit the site of the adjacent Hippodrome inspired by Rome’s Circus Maximus in 203AD and used for chariot races and other public events. Enlarged by Constantine it held 100,000 people. Located here are various obelisk’s including one brought from Egypt in 390Ad and a metal one shaped like entwined snakes made from the shields and swords of the Persians defeated by the Greeks in 479BC, the oldest Greek monument in Turkey.

We finally move on to the Blue Mosque, so called because of over 20,000 turquoise Iznik tiles that glow softly in the light of the 260 windows. Four massive columns support an enormous dome70ft in diameter and 142ft at the crown. Moving quickly to remove our shoes placing them in plastic bags, we enter the mosque past the rows of brass spigots that line the outside walls of the mosque.

Since the faithful are called to prayer 5 times a day, they must wash their feet, forehead, elbows and hands, before they can enter the mosque. Rain shine, 100 degree or 10 degree weather… this WILL be done. Built from 1609-1616 it is the principal imperial mosque because of the proximity to Topkapi Palace and dominates the skyline.

Then it was time to head for the Grand Bazaar and the Magical Tchotchke Tour. On the way we had many KODAK moments and Serkan tried his best to get us into his favorite jewelry store. One look at the prices and the girls were off to the Bazaar each on their own personal “more economical” tchotchke hunt.

One of the worlds largest indoor flea markets, it just one hustle after another. Easy to get lost, Serkan gave precise instruction on how to find our way out of the maze of shops and stalls. Never to fear… Chuckie’s innate sense of direction and haggling skills prevailed and with special deals in hand, we escaped unscathed save one loud exchange when Sara refused to be bullied by a particular vocal shopkeeper. 35 years teaching 5th grade and nothing backs this lady down.

The ride back to the ship was a bit fretful in the unbelievably congested traffic but we made it to the ship with minutes to spare. Bidding farewell to Serkan, the girls grabbed more booze at the “Last Chance duty free” shop. Safely boarded our floating hotel we have a quick bite in the buffet and its off to crash from a hard walking day.

Tomorrow… a sea day and Chuckie’s birthday…What will the morning bring?!?

Ciao 4 Now,
Chuck and the seriously draggin’ from a hard day walkin’, Dragon Lady.